Emirates Palace, Abu Dhabi

Across the way from us is a seven star hotel (for better jokes than we can make about Abu Dhabi's claims to seven stars, check out The World's Only Seven Star Satirical News Source), complete with camel lattes, an ATM that dispenses gold bars, and a massive selection of jewelry and watch stores. There are cases and cases of ancient (several thousand years old) ceramics.  Sitting inside makes us feel as if we're dining in Versailles.

During our first week here, Margaret went for a camel latte, and did a massive amount of work because of her supreme fear of being caught gawking. Seriously. Like a whole grant application in one day. That ten dollar latte was worth every dirham.

We went back together this weekend to celebrate the beginning of Eid. There are a lot of restaurants, many of which are out of our price range, but the cafe is reasonable and almost impossibly tranquil. We both ordered the camel burger, which comes with gold flakes and delicious chick pea fries!

Gold, we've been told in the morning news, is health-neutral. Phew.

  After dinner we went for a wander around the grounds. Margaret found a gold hat for Nick and and enjoyed the view of the massive hallways.

It is impossible to capture the place properly in photos - the way the city skyline opens up as you stand at the top of the steps - the way the obscene number of fountains playing becomes peaceful and elegant, rather than tasteless - the way the great green fields of grass and trees attracts so many birds that there is constant birdsong of all kinds. We were ready to be disgusted at ostentation, but were instead charmed.  You will just have to visit.