Showing posts with label India. Show all posts
Showing posts with label India. Show all posts

Thursday, March 12, 2015

Red Fort & Karim's

Shah Jehan relocated to Delhi in 1638. Of course, he needed another red fort. And of course, it needed to be bigger and better than Agra's red fort.... and magically, took only nine years to build.   

Unfortunately, not much of the fort is left -- after the 1857 rebellion, the British nearly leveled the complex. Partial pieces remain. The wall outside, and the massive gate.


A well. The hall of audience, with its gorgeous archways.


The ground reminds visitors where things must've been -- that there were fountains, canals, gardens. Just outside it, Shah Jehan's daughter designed Chandi Chowk, a massive market and garden with canals that glowed in the moonlight. Things from all over the world were displayed there: dancers, exotic animals, spices, and so on. 

No remnants of canals remain. The market is still bursting with things from all over the world. As our friends say enthusiastically, "you can buy anything here."


And that includes the best buttery dal ever made, at Karim's, one of the oldest restaurants in Delhi.... 


...a restaurant with which it is impossible to find fault. 


Tuesday, March 10, 2015

More Japiur

Jaipur is nothing if not pink....


...and bustling.


But we did find one glowingly golden place, Jantar Mantar, a collection of sun dials and astrological inventions created by a Rajput king in the eighteenth century at the tail end of the Mughal period. 


One massive sundial, accurate to within two seconds, dominates the courtyard. Alongside it, smaller creations abound -- little dials for each astrological sign....


... an elaborate and somewhat mysterious astrological instrument that represents the whole night sky in two beautiful, complementary basins.


Stray off to a corner, and you'll find trees bouncing with monkeys trading branches.

Wander into the street, and you'll find that every last shop owner has something to say to you. "Please, come inside!" they'll urge. "This is the best place for cloth/fabric/jewels/spices."

Even the tuk tuks have love advice to offer. 

Saturday, March 7, 2015

Amber Palace

Amber Palace sits on a hill just outside of Jaipur. The palace is golden, not amber, and got its name through a complicated game of telephone we haven't sufficient memory to rehearse. 


We do know that it's a short elephant ride to the Palace entrance (and that we will likely not take up riding elephants as a past-time).


Amber Palace is part-palace, part-fort.  It reminded us of Karak, in Jordan -- definitely built to withstand a marauding army, but also designed with the pleasures of life in mind.  And maybe a touch of Abu Dhabi as well -- there was a beautiful garden on a man-made island in a man-made lake for the lucky residents to enjoy.



Friday, March 6, 2015

Agra Fort


Food is not allowed at Agra Fort, for fear that monkeys will congregate. Monkeys still congregate, but they concentrate on the entrance, where food is confiscated. This monkey is about to make off with some chips -- a feat of athleticism that stopped the crowd in amazement.

The rest of the fort is pretty amazing, too.



Shah Jehan spent his last few years here, locked up after his (least favorite) son took charge. He could see the Taj Mehal in the distance....



...wander through beautiful white marble rooms....


....and gaze at the blue sky, framed by the red of his wonderful fort.




We don't know how he felt about it, but for us, Agra Fort is heart-wrenchingly beautiful. 

Thursday, March 5, 2015

Taj Mahal

The Taj Mahal was....

Gorgeously grand gates, covered in Arabic scrawl. 


A building so lovely that it seems to float, photo-shopped, on the horizon. 


Beautiful from every angle.





....and not unusually in India, crowded!

Saturday, February 21, 2015

Our first Indian wedding

We spent our first, formative year out of college basically living with all our QMAP friends. At the time, living involved playing a lot of poker, talking incessantly about black holes, and frequenting a bar called Attic, which sadly exists no longer. It is odd, a little sad, and wonderful to watch each other grow up. 


It was entirely wonderful to see our friend get married in Delhi this February. Our friend is Kashmiri, and his family is now scattered -- some in the US, some in Delhi, and others in Doha or elsewhere in in India. A host of friends and relatives converged in a very posh Delhi hotel for two days of wedding festivities.


We got a lot of help in understanding what happened each day, but we are still likely to fumble our explanations a bit. Day one involved henna for the ladies...


...a fair amount of dancing, including an adorable routine by the younger cousins....



...and copious, delicious food. It also happened to be a dry day in Delhi, to mark upcoming elections, which meant our poor friends had to scramble a little for celebrations on their first night. Not to worry -- they set up a hotel room as a sort of bar, where guests converged every once in a while for drink.
The next day was the big event. It was outdoors, under canopies of honeysuckle and roses, complete with a bicycle for the groom's grand entrance. 


Parts of the wedding were surprising to us. Guests chatted as the ceremony went on -- luckily for us, chatting included careful explanations of what was happening. And a lot was happening: walnut crushing, mirror-looking, fire circling, some really serious vows in Sanskrit (with possibly wobbly English translation), and a variety of financial transactions knitting the families together. Friendly explanations were not the only talking going on. Here, the officiant takes a phone call mid-ceremony.


Amid the smells of honeysuckle, sizzling cheese, the crunch of walnuts, and the smoke of the fire, the important part seemed to be just about the same: our friends got married. 


We approved.



They celebrated that evening in a sort of outdoor fairy land, white lanterns in the trees, and elegant versions of Indian street-food lining a grassy courtyard. 


It was a gorgeous wedding. 



Humayun's Tomb


Humayun was a Mughul emperor whose wife built him an amazing garden and an enormous building to house his remains.  She must have liked him.  We were sufficiently impressed by the time we got to the gateway to the tomb. 


The building itself is spectacular. 


But even after just a few hours in Delhi the most exciting part of the monument was the expanse of silent, empty greenery.


Humayun isn't the only chap buried here -- his royal barber also gets a pretty spectacular monument!


Friday, February 20, 2015

Qutb Minnar

After a trip to South India (Chennai and Kerala) in October, we gave North India a try.  Why, as we were asked at passport control when leaving Abu Dhabi?  Well, for one, our friends were getting married in Delhi, and for another, we have been told that it is a completely different place than the south.  Different, yes.  Completely?  Depends on where you're coming from -- but the sights (and food!) are certainly spectacular.

We landed at night, took a deep breath, and found our way to our hotel.  We spent our first full day exploring New Delhi, an area which was built up by the British but which has monuments which span over 1000 years of Indian history.  First stop was one of the oldest, Qutb Minnar.  


Qutb Minnar construction began in 1193 by the first Muslim sultan of Delhi, supposedly in celebration of his victory over the Hindus.  It was an ambitious project: even now, the tower is the second tallest minaret in India. Like most buildings we saw on the trip, it took decades to complete. (We wonder how many stunningly elaborate projects had been started and abandoned.)  A beautiful mosque, finished in 1198, sits beside it. 


We were surprised at how frequently six (rather than eight) sided stars featured in the intricate cut-outs. You can just get a glimpse of them in the screen below.  We later learned that when Qutb Minnar was built, the all three monotheistic religions used six-sided stars as symbols.



The complex is massive -- besides the mosque, there are ruins of a university, as well as elaborate tombs.


Each and every stone is mesmerizing, with pink, golden, red, gray, and white hues of sandstone making up varied, intricate patterns.



And the parrots are lovely, too. 

Tuesday, February 17, 2015

After-India, Pre-Sri Lanka Syllabus

We're back from India, and we're behind on our reading. City of Djinns by William Dalrymple got us hooked on all things Delhi, Mughal, or otherwise tinged with red stones and political intrigue. The stack of books worth reading keeps growing. Here's our list so far.

India
City of Djinns: A Year in Delhi, William Dalrymple.
    Dalrymple chronicles a year in Delhi, as he pieces together the history of the buildings and world       around him. (Also on our long-term list, Dalyrmple's White Mughals and The Last Mughal.)

Slowly Down the Ganges, Eric Newby.
     A wonderfully comic account of a boat trip down the Ganges River, a long-time dream of ex-              fashion-designer Newby. Margaret has been going slowly through the book -- it's fun to pick up  
     every few months to watch Newby inch through India, one scraped boat-bottom at a time.

Behind the Beautiful Forevers: Life, Death, and Hope in a Mumbai Undercity, Katherine Boo.
     Boo spent three years in a slum in Mumbai to research & write her non-fictional account. It's
     beloved by book clubs the world over, and -- better still -- friends recommended it. We haven't
     started yet, but soon....

And fiction, you ask? We should reread Rushdie, try out some more V.S. Naipaul, and crack open Amitav Ghosh's lightly fictionalized account of an Indian slave in the Middle East in the twelfth century, In an Antique Land. Nick should probably finish Gora. We'll get to it. But we're also headed to Sri Lanka soon....


Sri LankaRunning in the Family, Michael Ondaatje.
   Ondaatje visits Sri Lanka, and traces his Dutch-Celanese heritage.

A History of  Sri Lanka, K.M. de Silva.
   The standard history of Sri Lanka. At 780+ pages, we might skip around.

The Cage: The Fight for Sri Lanka and the Last Days of the Tamil Tigers, Gordon Weiss.
   An account of the Tamil-Sinhalese conflict, lauded by the Economist as "scrupulously fair." We're      halfway through, and it's a tough and sad read. 

Tuesday, November 4, 2014

A Passage to India, volume II: Munnar Hill Station


When we make tea now, we pause a little lovingly in scooping out the tea leaves. We know exactly where they came from. 


Tea is serious business in Munnar. The tea factory we visited had mission statements, growth targets and a rigorous accounting system...



...and a few tea leaves, too.  


Where did the tea come from?  Everywhere.


The only leaves harvested for tea are the bright, new leaves. The rest are trimmed back into wavy rows. Fields are burned every eight years. The plants survive: they are old . Some fields date back as far as 1902.

Tea farmers plant silver oaks every few meters as a natural irrigation system. In the rainy season, the roots of the trees soak up water. As the land dries out, the roots release water, and the tea plants gladly soak it up. 



By a happy coincidence, the silver oaks are also quite lovely.

For all its idyllic scenery, the trip to Munnar began with a fair amount of anxiety. Margaret was traveling under an assumed name, so far as her travel documents were concerned. Our friend Dan, meanwhile, checked his bag at the last minute. It contained not only his wallet and passport, but his beloved iPhone, too. So we had a suspenseful wait in line to board our plane, followed by a suspenseful few hours in the air. 

Luckily, all ended well. Apparently it's ok to travel under an assumed name in India, and usually, bags turn up when and where they're supposed to.


It was a five hour drive to Munnar, which we both remember in great detail. There was the moment when a truck emblazoned with "Jesus Christ Will Save You" barreled towards our tiny car.
There was the darkly comic realization that our car had Hindu, Christian, Islamic, and secular spiritual precautions against accidents dangling from its rear-view. There were the skull and cross bones signs, which were, if anything, understatements of the driving conditions.

There was the moment when we turned and saw monkeys, sitting on a wall just off the road.

We have no photographic evidence of any of this.



And then there was arriving in Munnar, when we grudgingly realized that in spite of all our anxiety, and in spite of the impending prospect of driving back on exactly the same road (crossbones and all),  we had landed somewhere wonderful.


In the mornings, there were sunrise runs through the fields of tea, past waterfalls. The air smelled like tea -- fresh, green, and gorgeous. On occasion, there were monkeys playing overhead.

And there was walking, too, through the tea fields and down to the lake, past waterfalls and through jungle-like spice gardens. At all times, we were looking for elephants.


And we found one. A few locals pointed one out to us, saying excitedly "elephant, elephant!" We finally spotted him, his ear twitching on the hillside opposite. He's in this picture, just a shadow in the middle of the treeline!


Despite his attempt at camouflage, this frog was easier to spot.


In the afternoons, Munnar grew warm and foggy and rainy. Inside, listening to the rain fall, we learned a traditional Indian game -- a cross between pool and tiddly-winks. We were terrible at it. For consolation, there was ping pong, and pool, and spades.


Kerala is one of the more Catholic regions of India. There are almost as many churches dotting the countryside as there are temples. (In some cases, we found the churches and temples pretty much indistinguishable.)


It is odd to go someplace to which we will almost surely not return. Perhaps that makes Munnar more memorable -- so visually striking, so bursting with the smell of tea, and so friendly. We will not sip tea in quite the same way for a while. 



And when our current supply runs out, we're already contemplating Lockhart Tea Factory's rather complicated mail-order system.....